The movement of fashion brands being more sustainable in an eco-friendly 2022 has been gaining huge momentum. Respected luxury brands and designers are producing less, and using more existing material at their disposal. Look at Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia increased his use of organic cotton and recycled materials, or Stella McCartney's use of upcycled fabrics. Then there comes brands who are at the forefront of fast fashion: a term used to describe dupe runway designs produced at a dramatically high production rate. Fast fashion beast, Shein, might be synonymous with the word unethical, and some might feel as though it’s wasteful to buy from them. Others, those being plus size body types and economically challenged individuals consider it a safe haven for fashion exploration. 

 

Sustainability activists have long claimed that fast fashion brands are harmful to the environment. This is due to the overwhelming mass production of products contributing to waste culture. However, what critics might fail to understand is that Shein succeeds at marketing, catering to the needs of their audience. They are body inclusive, and affordable for the average consumer. From skirts being $11 and tops at $5, with the addition of discounts and promotional codes, Shein leads in its marketing strategy. Cutting out department stores who may not have such an extensive category of larger, affordable and on trend clothing. It raises the questions of who to blame? Should diverse audiences feel shamed for buying these products? What else can they do?

 

While Shein offers lottery-like tactics to lure their consumers into low, discounted items, many consider thifting as a sustainable rebuttal. It’s a good place to start in combating fast-fashion, but the lack of size options still causes concern. Additionally, many may not realize that the gentrification of thrift stores in conjunction to being consumed by resellers on platforms such as Depop. Cheap, affordable items being resold at a higher rate, to turn profit. It was estimated that the second-hand apparel market to be worth 64 billion in 2024 according to the 2020 Resale Report. 

 

To that end, what can brands like SHEIN do to become more sustainable? Well recently they hired Adam Whinston, a former Disney and JCPenney executive, serves as director of environmental, social and governance (ESG) at Shein. He is in charge of critiquing the business practices of Shein, to which they have been accused of violating Chinese labor laws, and been criticized for knocking off designers on social media. 

 

Sustainability in fashion will reign as the issue with more layers than cake. But canceling individuals for wanting to be appreciated in fashion is complex and intricate, the answer is not simple. Solutions start and end at the company, blaming consumers for being targeted in an industry about profit will certainly not solve this conflict.